from the beginning

0514090930

November 6, 2009 John and I were talking today about what it was that set us on this path to mobile living. We had started looking at commercially made RVs in February of this year and the discomfort with conventional life had been building for as long as I can remember. Although, it was usually hard to pinpoint exactly why or what to do about it. We watched the documentary Zeitgeist: Addendum when it came out in 2008 and fell in love with the idea of a new and better form of society. While our vision strays quite a bit from TZM/TVP, I can't go without feeling appreciative of the nudge I got from that film. It had been brewing for long before that, but that's when the urgency to change set in officially. We started learning as much as we could about alternative energy, water treatment, waste management, and ways to foster greater independence and flexibility. At the same time, we were discovering more and more about our current way of life that we did not like but had no way of controlling in that setting.

We bought our first house in 2006 and at the time it was a great deal because it was a foreclosure that was structurally sound and relatively new but needed a whole lot of cosmetic work that we could do ourselves. Comparables were going for around $170,000 and we were happy to get the house for under $130k. We had plans to DIY with $20k and hard work to make it perfect. We got the tiles for both bathrooms on craigslist for $25, and went on that way for a long time--searching for great deals and making them work or making things ourselves like custom concrete countertops. We thought that it was an appropriate step into adulthood and were just going through the motions of accumulating stuff to fill the house, trying to impress our friends and make our families proud. Really trying to cover up the prominent bouts of otherness we were both known for in an attempt to be that everyone else seems to consider normal. I couldn't keep doing that.

So we looked around at used motorhomes for a while and realized that their poor quality, abundance of features that are irrelevant to us, and lack of relevant ones did not justify the cost for a less than ideal home. We looked at Class A RVs, then Class C RVs, then school buses and transit buses. Finally we discovered the high ceilings and endless possibilities of box trucks. There was a perfect, rust-free 1999 GMC T6500 in Tampa so we hopped on a plane, bought it for $12k and drove it back to Michigan.

This will be our home.

money
November 8, 2009


Some of this might come as a surprise to those of you who know us. John and I have spent years building our credit, saving money, and improving our house. Basically we were (reluctantly) living and planning for a completely average life. That's different now, but we're okay so I don't want you to worry.

house front and back

We decided to let the house go into foreclosure. Even though we got a "good deal" at the time of the purchase, we'd be lucky to sell it now at half of the mortgage balance. Plus, that doesn't even factor in the tens of thousands of dollars we put into fixing the place up. I'm tired of wasting so much of my life for this false idea of ownership. We will never own this property, even after the mortgage is paid off. It's not just about ownership--it's this whole lifestyle. Do you know what percentage of people live to be retirement age? Of those people, how much of their time do they spend working just to pay for the roof over their head? I'm not against hard work, but since when did it get to be the norm to have only nights, weekends, and holidays for yourself and your own goals?

I guess the whole point of writing this is to say that I'm tired of the way that the quest to earn money shapes our lives, often more than our interests and values. Instead of complaining and feeling bitter about this for years to come, I'd rather do something else. Take action. Live differently. Use less. Need less.

cutting down on expenses and household excess
November 30, 2009


One of the first transitions into our new life involves cutting down on expenses and saving money for our truck project. Some of the saving strategies have been small, but they serve more than one purpose. Most products for cleaning, skin care, and the like contain toxic chemicals and are somewhat expensive when you add it all up. Plus, when we get to the point of setting up our own water filtration system, it wouldn't be in our best interest to dump poison into the water. So, I've started making laundry soap, fabric softener, toothpaste, lotion, deodorant, shampoo, conditioner, and cleaning supplies. All of these things are cheap, simple to make and recipes can be found online for all kinds of natural homemade alternatives in addition to the ones I've listed.

I've also spent much of my time recently going through my house, room by room, and getting rid of everything that isn't relevant to making our new home. I've been selling all kinds of things on Craigslist and the extra income helps me stay motivated. With only about six months to move from 1532+ to 175 sq ft, that means we have to give up nearly everything. It was emotional at first, but now it's more of a relief than anything else. I really loved my living room furniture and only had it for a short time. When we bought it, I thought it would be the last couch I'd ever need. Like the part in Fight Club after the Narrator's condo exploded and he was feeling bummed out about losing all of his carefully selected crap. A young couple from craigslist who were so excited to finally have matching grown-up furniture took turns stretching out on the couch to test it. It was a whole lot less than I paid for it, but I got almost $900 and made some people really happy. That's enough.

layout

Designing the space to reflect what we want in our life has been the most fun aspect of the project so far. One thing that Mike Reynolds said, in the documentary Garbage Warrior, in regards to architecture is that traditional houses are not designed with the environment or people in mind. The home that we're designing will make our lives better. It will take care of us.

The plans have changed significantly since I've made these, but I'll post them here before reworking the whole thing so that you can be part of the process with us and see how things evolve.

There will be a loft at the front end of the box, which will elevate our TempurPedic mattress and Migun thermal acupressure massage bed. Below that will be the couch with fold down tables for dining and a desk. The digital piano will be partially under the loft as well and slightly away from the wall with one of the two heaters behind it. The left wall will have two wardrobes and the washer and dryer stacked. The right wall will have the exterior door, refrigerator and sink base cabinet. The shower and toilet are at the back wall.


interior level 1
interior level 1.5


thoughts on composting toilets

So after discovering some startling reviews (here at poopreport.com) about commercially made composting toilets, specifically the Envirolet, I felt really worried about our bathroom situation. Since every person I’ve talked to or read about who made their own composting toilet seems satisfied, I assumed that the premade ones would simply be better and more efficient, especially since they're ridiculously expensive. All of the claims on the manufacturers' websites falsely backed up my initial ideas about it. However, the consensus is that basically it’s too difficult for a fan and a heater to evaporate the amount of urine that a person produces on a daily basis without adding lots of composting material to absorb it all, and doubly so with double occupancy. It's just not practical in a vehicle.

So after looking at Nature’s Head mobile composting toilets, which are set apart by the fact that the liquids are separate from the solids, the world started to make sense again.


countdown

In less than six months, this house will no longer be mine to occupy. After we are gone, it will likely sit vacant for months or even years just like all the others around here. It's a shame, really, but I'll be glad to be gone. My heart goes out to everyone who is going through this by force rather than choice.

We have around 5½ months of work to be done on the truck before we'll be ready. (Not done, but ready.) John got forced into working overtime on Monday and it's hard to say how often that will happen, or what other things will delay our progress. Since it's difficult to foresee anything other than things going right and they rarely do, I'm considering each day to be urgent.

So far we’ve installed a mobile home door, motor home steps, skylights, ventilation fan, air conditioner, a layer of spray foam insulation on inside walls, replaced the roof and parts of the floor, added rigid foam on the back wall and ceiling, removed the lift gate to add the tow package and replaced the roll up door with a permanent back wall.
finished ceiling 2


Most recently, we finished the ceiling panels. They are made out of aluminum sheet metal over insulation, screwed into the roof beams and riveted together at the seams. You can't tell because this picture was taken at night, but once the reflective tubes were put in for the skylights, it brings in a lot more light even now with the covers installed. The walls will be a few inches thicker, which will bring them past the edges of the ceiling sheets and we're going to put up angle iron as crown molding where map meets metal. The base molding will be similar but it will have an additional (and removable) top piece to contain all of the electrical wires.

2nd sheet bracing

It was a balancing act of sorts just trying to get these sheets up. It's a much more complicated and difficult project than I imagined but it feels really good to have done it. John would pick up a 4x8 sheet of aluminum and carry it up the ladder and I'd scurry around the bottom trying to get the support boards propped up, then we'd have to take them out to properly line up the sheets and put them back in one at a time. It was incredibly frustrating and there were a few times where I thought we'd both end up crushed under a pile of metal and wood.

The laminated world map wall murals arrived in the mail today. John still has some caulking that he wants to do before getting started with the walls and it rained today so we'll probably start by Wednesday as long as it doesn't rain again tomorrow. We will screw in another layer of rigid foam and plywood, prime it and apply the murals.

mobile garage
December 14, 2009


trailer

I forgot to mention that we bought a 7'x14' trailer to tow behind the truck. The guy we bought it from only used it once to haul two motorcycles to Las Vegas and back so it's in great condition. Plus, he let us keep the ladder ramp and tie down hardware so we're ahead of the game on that one.

mopeds and motorcycles front

The trailer will have a place in the front for a work bench and tools, the middle will be for our fitness equipment and miscellaneous storage, and the back will be just enough space for two 50cc scooters. I have a 2009 Honda Metropolitan and John has a 2009 Honda Ruckus and they will be our primary transportation once we relocate to a place with more favorable weather and sell our 2008 GMC Sierra. When it wasn't so terribly windy, we both rode our scooters every day to work/school/wherever and only used the truck occasionally.

leaks, leaks & more leaks
December 27, 2009


leaks

I suspect the box that came on this truck's chassis is older than the truck itself. I would estimate it to be 25-30 years old and about 10 years ago (when it was put on our truck chassis) it was refurbished after a major accident with its former truck.
One major problem we've run into several different times so far is leaks. Because of this box's age, many of the seam seals have hardened and cracked, letting in small amounts of water. I have also traced leaks back to sliver-sized punctures in the aluminum walls, and tightly jointed frame members (which were sealed well, but later a gap in the caulk the size of a BB was found under an overhang.)

All this to say, if anyone is thinking of buying a truck like this, make sure the box is as new as possible. I have heard that a good option is used U-Haul boxes, because they normally see very light use in their lifetimes. But it might not be a bad idea to just buy a new box and have it installed. Patches always leak, seams always leak, repairs always leak, sometimes even dents leak (no kidding)! We have spent as much time and money on a new roof, new decking, caulk, fixing bent beams, etc. as a new box would have cost without any of the headaches.

I think we have finally found all the trouble spots, but I won't be surprised if a few more turn up.

layout
December 30, 2009


I finally got around to updating the floor plan. The changes include the bathroom layout, the water treatment system, the skylights, the sink, the ventilation fan, and the toilet.

We decided to build a second lower loft in the back corner to elevate the toilet so we can store the water tanks in the area below. That way, almost all the plumbing can be be internalized. At first we were thinking of putting the tanks under the truck, insulating them and getting the kind of pump that can run dry to empty the pipes when we're not using them. Then possibly heating the tank area when it gets dangerously cold but that's just another big project that would end up costing us precious electricity in the winter when we have less to spare. Plus, I think the second loft will make the layout a bit more interesting.

(Click images to see full size)




We should be done with the wall murals by the end of this weekend, so I'll have some progress pictures up soon. We're going to move the truck and trailer into the back yard today before it snows again so it doesn't end up covered in road salt and rusting. Then hopefully there will be time left at the end of the day to start working on the walls.


walls
January 16, 2010


We've had a few setbacks recently but it's okay. We're starting to get back on track now. Moving the truck next to the house for the winter proved to be a bad idea. It got stuck in a really awkward position so it had to be dug out and moved back to the road. Despite the few problems we've encountered, I still feel good about our progress.

Here is an image that shows the layers of the wall (spray foam, rigid foam, plywood) followed by a picture of the finished plywood walls.
layers finished plywood


map front

The maps are finished! Now it's much easier for me to imagine living in it. I also started working on a 3D model in SketchUp, but I'm still learning the program so it's taking longer than I expected. I made something quick and easy a few days ago because I couldn't wait to see how everything will look together. I just plopped the dimensions of our furniture and appliances into Ikea's home planner and then changed a few things in photoshop to make them look more like our stuff.

floor plan

John doesn't have any experience with welding yet, so today his brother is here to help him get started with the loft construction. I'm not sure if they'll end up modifying some heavy duty utility shelving or starting from scratch. Either way, this will be a great weekend for progress. Next week, we'll start putting in the underlayment and cork flooring.

cork floor
January 22, 2010


John finished putting in two layers of underlayment and the floating plank cork flooring yesterday. We originally bought the it for our house and I’m glad to still have a reason to use it. I’ve wanted cork flooring since I first set eyes on the café steps of the Andy Warhol museum in Pittsburgh.
cork floor


Last night we picked up the shower and lots of Superstrut. The Superstrut will serve three purposes: loft construction, base molding and conduit lines. The reason why we chose to use this for the conduit is because we can make simple, segmented angle iron covers. That way, if we ever need to add/change/move electrical wires, it’ll be as easy as taking out a few screws.
shower superstrut

shower
January 24, 2010


We had a few options for how to approach the plumbing situation for the shower. One option was to have the shower a few inches away from the wall to make room for pipes but in a tiny home, losing a few inches is a big deal. Plus, if we ever needed to access/repair the pipes, the whole shower would need to be removed. We could have made an access panel to the outside, but that would have been simply trading one problem for another. We've heard about RV showers being unusable for most of the winter day because of frozen pipes.

shower installed

We ended up deciding on removing one of the tempered glass panels on the left side, replacing it with plexiglass, applying a frosted window film and cutting holes into it for the shower valve. This way, the plumbing will be easy to access from under the kitchen sink, the water pipes will be incredibly short and completely internal. Plus we’re not losing any space behind the shower.

The floor wasn’t square with the wall, so John used some left over plywood to make a new base for the shower. He used a jack plane and a belt sander to shave it down gradually to 1/8” lower on one of the sides to make it level. It was an incredibly dusty project, but it worked out well.

Now that there is a hole drilled in the floor for the shower drain, we are able to run the extension cord into the truck without needing to have the door cracked open. It’s amazing how much of a difference that makes for the temperature.

Also, in the shower picture above you can see the "crown molding" we finished a few days ago. It is 1½" aluminum angle stock.

skeletons
January 31, 2010


The Superstrut has been put together to form the bedroom loft, bathroom loft and baseboard/electrical conduit. One hundred ninety feet of it! Superstrut is great because it’s easy to join the pieces of metal without welding and is stronger than wood so it takes less material, therefore less space. The only downside is that it’s for industrial uses so it comes covered in machine oil and metal powder. Just picking up one of the 10’ sections to put it on the cart in the store will make your hands black. It took hours just to clean them with a mixture of vinegar and boiling water. Soap and water just wouldn't cut it.

bedroom loft
bedroom loft 2bathroom loft 2
bathroom loft


Also, I made a video of the SketchUp image swiveling so all different angles can be seen in 3D. This includes some of the updates to our layout not previously mentioned here.



lofts
February 13, 2010


loft with toilet

The bathroom and bed lofts are both finished. For the bed loft, we used two sheets of ¾” plywood screwed into the Superstrut beams. Bolts and fender washers were used at the seam to make the two sheets flush. For the bath loft we used ¾” plywood and cork plank flooring. All of the edges and the wall seams are finished with aluminum angle stock.
finished toilet loft finished bed loft

The Nature’s Head composting toilet arrived and is now bolted in place but will not be functional until we get the electrical system set up and the vent installed.
toilet top

John is working on the countertop tonight so it’ll be ready for installation soon, along with the sink and faucet.

photo archive
February 17, 2010


We were going through our older photos recently and found some that we didn't get a chance to upload until now.

back wall

sale ad door hole back wall, unpainted truck without back door fan outside shower floor shower wallparked new late nights
door cut door cloud reflection


kitchen
February 21, 2010


kitchen 1


We decided to use a work bench instead of a sink base cabinet for the kitchen. That way we could fit the fresh water tank on the floor under it without having to hide it away somewhere. Two plastic drawer/bins with lids are mounted under the countertop. The corner of the countertop had to be cut at an angle in order to fit comfortably next to the shower. The 2 ½ inch angle backsplash also acts as a stretcher, a spacer, and is screwed into the wall and countertop to hold it all in place.

drawers sink

kitchen 3


long term plans
February 28, 2010


As many of you already know, we don’t intend to simply make a house inside a truck and live in it forever. We often discuss our long term goals and what we need to do to get there but recently divided our plans up into more manageable phases. A simplified summary of each phase is listed below.

Phase I: Build the Mobile Condo

Our first step involves creating a small, portable living space with the potential to be independent and will allow us to cut down on our recurring monthly living costs in the future. This is a large investment up front but will give us the ability to save a significant amount of money over time for our end goals. We will remain in our house until this phase is complete.


Phase II: RV Park Camping

At the end of May, we will relocate to an RV park where we will spend the summer finishing our Mobile Condo project. Our electricity usage will be monitored in order to choose and install a properly sized solar power system. The water treatment research and plumbing will be completed. The truck will be converted to run on WVO.


Phase III: Off-grid Camping

With our own power and water systems, we will no longer require the services provided by the RV Park and it will likely be nearing the end of the camping season. We will spend our first winter (and beyond) living off-grid in the Mobile Condo. During this time, John will retain his current job. This phase will last for anywhere from one to five years.
bushes

Phase IV: Retirement & Research

John will discontinue his employment and we will begin exploring various intentional communities and projects that could enrich our lives and give us new ideas. I’d like to go to a seminar (or maybe even do an internship) with Earthship Biotecture and also investigate other housing, food production, or clean energy projects. We’ll keep an eye out for any relevant learning experiences. We will also be launching a new, more detailed website that will include a video series and a collection of technical guides from our research and experiences.


Phase V: Community Living

We would like to buy land to start a community (actually, more of a guild) but have not completely ruled out the idea of joining an existing group if our goals match. Much of this depends on what we find and who we meet along the way in phase I-IV. The goal is to cut financial ties to the existing system except for property taxes and internet service, improve methods of self-sufficiency, and create a manual that could be followed by anyone who would like to do the same in other locations. [2011 UPDATE: Okay, maybe not. I'm not sure if settling in a permanent community is really the best option for us.]



wardrobes & loft steps
March 6, 2010


bookshelf


A two step storage compartment was made and installed to get up to the toilet loft. We have yet to decide whether to use drawers or bins in them for storage but we can decide on that part later. Each step is 16” high, 16” wide and 11” deep. That same model was replicated for the taller bed loft, but a third step (which doubles as a book shelf) was added. It is 48” tall (which is 16” higher than the second step) 22” wide and 11” deep. We had considered making the steps out of conduit and using the same cork plank flooring on each step but decided against it. Using wood saved time and eliminated the need for more metal trim (to cover the cork edges) since the wooden steps have a finished edge.

2 steps 3 steps


Also, we purchased and installed two wardrobes. The 24” space between the wardrobes is soon to be occupied by the washer and dryer. Originally we wanted to use mirrored doors to make getting ready in the morning easier. They turned out to be a bit overwhelming to the design, plus they were way too heavy. Each door weighed nearly 60 lbs. We exchanged them for doors with a metal frame and frosted glass. The new doors turned out to be $80 more but they weigh less than half as much and I like the way they look. The aluminum and tempered glass almost match the shower so it ties the room together.

wardrobes 4


garage
March 16, 2010


trailer


We installed flooring, moped mounts and a workbench in the trailer. The flooring is compressed rubber for the back half (under the mopeds) and foam matting for the front work bench area. The work bench was made out of left over Superstrut and 3/4” plywood. Since the trailer has barn style doors, a ramp is needed for loading and unloading the mopeds. A folding aluminum ramp came with the trailer and it seems to be adequate for our purposes. The trailer is almost done; it just needs a few more wall attachments and a storage solution under the workbench. Plus, we need to make a final assessment of our tool inventory.

bench moped mounts

work bench


furniture
March 21, 2010


furniture

The piano, Migun bed, and two chairs have been moved into the truck and secured. The chairs are screwed into the floor and the piano is attached to the wall. The Migun bed will be held in place by the mattress, which won't be moved out there until we're ready to live in it. (In case you've never heard of it, you can find out more at Migun World.)

We've had the chairs for a while now and I'm really glad to have changed the design to include them instead of the green couch. They're more supportive and adjustablility is a feature that I value since we won't have multiple sets of chairs for each different purpose. I can say for sure now that I don't feel claustrophobic sitting under the loft, despite the lower than culturally standard ceilings.

chairs


I also ordered a new folding piano bench that'll be easier to store than the original that came with the piano. We're thinking that it might be nice to be able to hang it under the piano when it's not in use. Plus, it's much more comfortable.



loose ends
April 4, 2010


We've been spending a lot of time lately minimizing our belongings. This week I got rid of the remainder of the large shop tools I still had, many specialty carpentry tools and most of the large fitness equipment. It is still incredible to me how much stuff we accumulate around ourselves. To live in a world where things did not need to be hoarded and protected would be, most significantly, relieving. I hope our descendants can experience this someday. If they do, I know they would never trade that world for the suspicion and fear we deal with constantly.

wardrobe (top) wardrobe (bottom)

the clock is ticking
April 19, 2010


may


Life has been a bit busy so I haven’t had much time for updates. Right now the mobile condo is getting new tires and some final improvements before we make the big move. I just finished my last classes for my degree so I’ll have much more free time this spring/summer for blogging and exploring the many advantages/adjustments into houselessness.

Also, since many of you have been asking about the cost of the project, I’ve been working on adding it all up. There are a few more unknowns to factor in but I’m getting there.

We'll be officially moving on May 15th. I'll still need to have a major cragislist/yard sale/freecycle event to clear out the rest of the house but a few weeks should be plenty of time for that so I'll wait until after we move. I've been having trouble figuring out what to do with some of my things and whether or not I'll be keeping them. Packing up the mobile condo will make it easier to accept the leftovers as stuff that is no longer mine and hopefully speed up the final purging steps.

additional storage
May 10, 2010


truck box
Six underbed truck boxes have been installed. Three are 48x18x18, two are 36x18x18, and one is 24x18x18. Mounting brackets were fabricated and bolted to the chassis to hold the boxes in place. We tried to fit the largest boxes possible for maximum storage space but also hopefully to act as a skirt to cut down on drag. The combined capacity of all the boxes is 45 cubic feet which is about the same as the back of a seatless minivan. (We know this because all the boxes pretty much filled our van when we were transporting them without much room for anything else.)

boxes mounted

Even though the boxes filled up most of the space below the condo, there is still plenty of room between the chassis beams and in the bumper area for a variety of uses. We haven’t decided on anything yet but we might use the space to catch drain water before it is pumped to filters and/or perhaps some electrical equipment could be mounted more conveniently there.

This is the last week of living in the house! We have to install the dryer, refrigerator, a railing for the bed loft and pack the truck and trailer for the move on Saturday.

restart the countdown
May 17, 2010


countdown

Due to what I assume was an overload of foreclosures causing a generally backed up system, our house was not sold back to the bank in December as scheduled. They didn’t get around to it until last month and didn’t bother to tell us until a few days ago. We were given the option to vacate the property within 15 days, clearing it of all our belongings and signing away our redemption rights in exchange for $4,500. If we retain our redemption rights, we are allowed to remain in the house until October 15. That’s 151 days from today.

It was a difficult choice. When I received the letter I was coming inside from preparing to move clothes into my new closet, only a few days away from fulltime truck living. We were both really looking forward to camping for the summer but it makes more sense to stay. This way, we can freely work on the electrical and water systems and have our own private bathrooms and garage to use in the meantime.

Other than the location, most of our plans for Phase II have not changed.

The Sunfrost refrigerator/freezer finally arrived. Sunfrost is a small company so it took about six weeks after ordering to have it assembled, crated and shipped. Actually, they don’t even take credit cards so I had to place the order by phone, have them send me an invoice and mail them a check. Normally, I find things like that to be deterring but the service and quality couldn’t have been better.

sunfrost

We ordered the RF12 DC model, which can be adjusted to operate on either 12 or 24 volts. It has a 10 CF (8:2) capacity. It sits on top of a matching 24” tall base cabinet with two large drawers. Now that we are able to see it in person, it seems as though we’ll be able to fit all of our cookware, dishes and utensils in one drawer leaving the other free to be used as a pantry. Several extra L brackets were installed to hold the refrigerator and cabinet in place.

sunfrost inside drawers

Then there is the matter of keeping the doors and drawers securely closed while we’re in motion. John picked up some latches/slide bolts and altered them to work for this purpose. He also installed a magnetic door stop with catch to keep the entrance door from slamming into the refrigerator but also to hold it open when we want to let in some fresh air.

door stopper and catch


spoiler alert!
May 22, 2010




We were really hoping to find a pre-made spoiler for sale that fit our truck. This would have saved a lot of time but we had no luck. We looked into universals, but they all were either the wrong size or would have still required modification. My brother did find a company that claimed to have the stock roof fairing; after they confirmed the part's compatibility via the condo's VIN, we ordered it. It arrived a few days later and - surprise! - it was for a completely different truck. So in the end we had no choice but to fabricate a custom fairing. We looked around for a donor vehicle and found this at a junkyard:



Quite a lot was removed from this piece. After shaping to our needs, the fairing was sanded, primed and painted. We then built a frame to mount and support the spoiler (the foam patches on the inside of the fiberglass will be cleaned up shortly):


There is still enough room behind the spoiler to get on to the cab's roof. We hope to utilize this space for antennas; possibly a parabolic dish that could be deployed on a telescoping mini-tower when parked.

As for aerodynamics, we will record fuel economies for a while to see if any improvement was made. This is most likely a wishful perception, but there does seem to be less air resistance while driving.

loft railing
June 8, 2010


bed rail 3
The loft is just large enough to fit the Migun bed and the mattress so the dangers of rolling out of bed had to be taken into consideration. We didn’t want to enclose the area completely to make it feel cramped but still wanted to incorporate something to make it a bit safer up there. We came up with this railing to suit our needs.
bed rail 2
Four bars were cut from 3/16 thick aluminum and bent at a 90 degree angle so each bar has a 16” and 24” segment. John drilled holes for bolts to connect the bars to the plywood (this part will be under the mattress) and to the plexiglass. We covered the plexiglass with frosted window film so it would let light through but could still allow for some privacy.

The only problem with this plan was that the edges can’t be left unfinished and we didn’t know what to use or where to find it. Someone suggested to get the kind of edging that can be used to finish foam board posters for school projects or presentations. In theory, that sounds perfect since foam board is usually about the same thickness as the plexiglass we used. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find it anywhere. At Michaels, we found some poster hangers but they only came in black. Since that that was the only thing even close to what we wanted, we decided to settle. After all of it was installed, the black edge made it look weird so I found some silver poster frames online to use instead. I still would have preferred matte silver instead of shiny but if it seems important in the future, I might pop them off and put on a coat of clear matte paint or something like that. For now, I’ll consider this project completed.

We bought a blow up mattress several years ago for a camping trip and decided to put it up there with a blanket to see how everything looks. We might even take it on a trip sometime before we officially move in, so it’ll work just fine as a temporary solution.
loft bed rail 4


finished trailer
June 15, 2010


trailer left trailer right

The trailer is finished now. The ladder, ramp, snowboards, and spare tire have been mounted on the wall. The rowing machine and two weight bars in pvc pipes have been mounted on the floor.
bins
We had to come up with a storage solution for sporting equipment and tools, so we decided on six stacked bins and a tool chest under the work bench. The bins are kept from sliding around and the drawers are held shut with bungee cords. There is also a barrel in the back corner under the work bench that will likely be used for rainwater catchment in the future.
trailer 1

electrical design
June 20, 2010


We are in the process of designing our electrical system for the condo. While we have taken the time to create a spreadsheet itemizing all of our electrical devices - including wattage, current, average time used, etc. - in the end, the actual deciding factor for our system's capacity will be space constraints. The electrical "budget" will have to fit the system, not the other way around.

Researching and learning enough about residential wiring, renewable power and mobile electrical systems to competently design and install our system - all in a few weeks - has been a little daunting. So far though I think we have a good idea of what will be needed:

ESystemBlock
ESystemBlock1

We will mount solar panels on the roof of the box, with tilt mechanisms we can adjust while parked to maximize sun exposure. We only found one panel model that would fit our roof and still utilize as much of it's surface area as possible. It is made by Kyocera; KD210GX-LPU. These panels produce 210 watts each. We will have ten (five on each side of the skylights) totaling 2100 watts. To simplify wiring, an array combiner box will be mounted high on the back wall outside. From this box only one set of wires will enter the condo, ending in a solar charge controller. We have selected the Outback FlexMax 80 for this; a single unit will be able to handle the 80 amps produced (at 24 Vdc) by the PV array.

Next, we chose Concorde PVX-2120L AGMs for the battery bank. Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are unique in that they don't need to be installed in a vented enclosure, as they do not release hazardous gasses when charged. They also stand up to shock and vibration better than other batteries, cannot freeze, and will not leak - even if cut open. We will have 8 of these (212Ah @ 12Vdc each), wired in a 24Vdc configuration (848Ah). We plan on an average daily lifestyle of ~5Kwh (~208Ah), so this battery bank/PV array combination should provide comfortable living for all but the worst of winter dark spells.

We might stay at RV parks or personal residences occasionally, so we will have the option to hook up to "shore power;" either 30A or 15A service. This AC input will pass through a surge protector to protect our power electronics, and prevent our condo from burning down while we sleep. We decided on the Progressive Industries EMS-LCHW30C hard-wired surge/voltage protector, designed for 30A rated RVs.

An inverter/charger will provide AC power when running loads off-grid, or charge the battery bank when shore power is present (while allowing grid power to also pass through for AC loads). We are planning to use the Outback VFX3524M inverter. This unit will provide 3500 watts of AC output, more than enough for our needs. Our system's components will be monitored and orchestrated by the Outback MATE (system monitor/controller), in conjunction with the Outback Flexnet DC shunt monitor.

A standard residential AC breaker panel will be used to distribute AC power to the various outlets. Since the battery bank is wired for 24Vdc, our 12Vdc appliances (fridge, water pumps, toilet, lighting) will be powered through a DC step down converter (Samlex SDC-15) with power distributed from a DC fuse block (Blue Sea Systems, ST blade fuse block).

We will soon begin the installation, starting with the AC outlets.

cold heaters
June 22, 2010


You might notice in the previous post that our system is not sized in a way that will provide a sufficient amount of electricity to heat the living area in the coldest, cloudiest parts of winter. At least not by using a heater that actually works.

We installed the eco-heaters a while back and tested them in the winter only to find out that all of the information on the manufacturer’s website and all the reviews we found had been misleading. The website claims that they can heat rooms up to 120 sq ft, but a more accurate estimate would be zero square feet. After having the heaters plugged in for over six hours, there was absolutely no temperature difference in the truck at all, not even 1’ away from the panel. In theory, eco-heaters seemed like they could have been fine for such a tiny space but it turned out to be a bust.
heat

I’m so disappointed about this because I wanted to use solar power for everything in the condo, but it’s just not possible while we’re mobile in Michigan. Many of the tiny houses I’ve seen online use this Dickinson Newport propane heater, and it seems to be popular among our fellow bloggers as well. We’ve been reluctantly eyeing this model since the failed heating attempt in the winter and haven’t found any other options worth considering, so I guess it’s time to officially commit to propane heat. We’ll still be using electricity for everything else.


fresh water & safely storing documents
July 6, 2010


I’ll write a more detailed post about our water filtration/purification/recycling process soon but for now let’s talk about drinking water. In order to simplify everything, we decided to keep the drinking & cooking water separate from the rest of the system. We started looking for a container to be kept on the counter next to the refrigerator but had a difficult time finding the right one.

I found these clear jugs that would have been aesthetically ideal if they came in a larger size. The biggest one they had was 2.5 gallons and I was looking for something closer to 10. Then I came across this 10 gallon Coleman beverage cooler, which was perfect because of the shape. It’s easy to find 10 gallon coolers but they’re usually round and would be an inefficient use of the space. Unfortunately, that one is out of stock and appears to be out of production.
aqua-tainer 7 gallons

We finally settled on two of these 7 gallon Aqua-tainers. Driving back from Chicago yesterday, we ended up stopping at some kind of sporting goods store (it looked like Cabella’s but wasn’t) because I wanted to see if we could find a small, collapsible fire pit. No luck on the fire pit, but we did get a chance to see the aqua-tainers in person. I had seen them online before and thought they looked kind of flimsy but they’re a lot better than I expected.

I think it should be fairly simple to set up a rainwater catchment system on the roof of the trailer that’ll be sufficient for replenishing our water supply. Locally, that equates to 32.8 inches of rain, 35.7 inches of snow. On a 7x14’ trailer, even after the initial roof wash flushes and general losses, it’ll be over 1000 gallons just from rain. I’ve still got a lot to read about the details of things like deflector valves, straining and water storage but I feel confident that when the time comes we’ll figure it all out.

Another thing we purchased at the sporting goods store was a little gun vault (Stack-on Strong Box Safe.) We had been trying to think of a way to create a place to keep our important documents but had yet to find a tiny replacement for our current filing cabinet and extra large fire safe. This one will be perfect for bolting down in a hiding place.
safe

laundry
July 13, 2010



After some careful thought, we decided to remove the washing machine from our mobile condo design. When this all started, we thought it would be cool to say, “See? We can have everything you have in your big house. We’re not making any sacrifices and actually have more conveniences by living this way.” Since living in a vehicle—or even living in a small space—is such a tiny part of our true goals, being able to say that is becoming less significant as we move forward. (Although, I still think it's true.) So, while it would be possible and probably even easy to have a modern washing machine, I don’t particularly want one anymore and "because I can" just to prove a point isn’t really a good enough reason to go through all that trouble. This is just as much about power, water, cost, or space as it is about preference and performance.

We will have the option between two hand washing methods (I like both) and a spin dryer. The first one is a hand crank Wonder Wash. The only complaint I have with this product is that the base isn’t very sturdy. Instead of writing it off completely, we intend to construct a more suitable base out of wood or metal in the future but for now it’ll be fine.

The second one is the Mobile Washer. For us, we've found that it's great with a five gallon bucket but it can be used with larger containers as well. Instead of going through all the details, I'll just direct you to a more in-depth review.


Then there's the spin dryer. I wouldn't be recommending either of the two washing methods above without something like this. It uses 300 watts and takes only about 2 minutes to spin out almost all the water. I tested to see if it was worth it by spinning a small load of laundry after already going through the spin cycle of my regular washing machine. The clothes were already fairly dry so I didn't think any more water would come out but it ended up extracting several more cups. After that it only takes a few hours to hang dry the clothes. I had a pair of my brother-in-law's socks in there with the rest of our stuff and they were so dry when they came out they were almost immediately wearable. They were some kind of moisture wicking material, so I'm thinking of replacing some of our clothes with others made from material that will be better suited for easy drying.


We still have our GE Spacemaker electric dryer as well but will only be using it in a limited capacity. It'll be nice to having the option of a dryer to fluff up the clothes or for when we're in a hurry, but I'd like to hang dry as often as I can.


checking in
July 23, 2010


I was planning on posting a spreadsheet of our estimated costs this week. I had an excel sheet with all our expenses listed minus the electrical and plumbing stuff. At this point we have a pretty good idea of what we need and how much it costs so I could have just made an estimate. Unfortunately, I deleted it. I thought I transferred it to my external drive and wiped everything on my computer before realizing that I missed one folder. I can rewrite all of it but it's just going to take some more time.

The good news is that we're making some progress on the electrical system. I'll have John write about everything he has done and get some pictures posted. The truck smells a lot like plastic right now. I'm going out there in a few minutes to wipe down all the caulk in the shower again and clean out the Sunfrost so it'll be a better environment to work in. We plan to get a lot done this weekend so I'll have more to show you soon.

condo wired
July 26, 2010


living room outlets

The electrical wiring of the truck and trailer is complete. The electrical system will remain at this stage of construction for now, while we turn our attention to the water and compost systems. This is why (as you can see in the picture) the mains hookup feed was left quite long; it is only temporarily attached directly to the breaker panel. When the power electronics are installed, this feed will be connected to the mains AC breaker for the inverter. At that point, the panel shown will actually become a distribution sub-panel.

breaker closed breaker open


12 gauge wiring was used throughout this installation. Although only half of the branches are designed to be used as 20 amp circuits, I always prefer to oversize components when it comes to electrical work. It may not be necessary, but I'm the one who has to be comfortable sleeping in this home.

trailer plugs trailer plug outside outlet


For the trailer connection, we used a conventional four-post round plug and socket. The terminals were just large enough to accommodate the 12 gauge wiring (they were only designed to accept signal wire gauges.) The cable attached to the plug connector had to be flexible & outdoor rated (i.e. sunlight, water and cold resistant) so a 12 gauge extension cord was used for this purpose. The other outdoor outlet boxes were weather sealed as well.

kitchen outlet loft outlet dryer outlet


piano outlet

GFCIs were used for all outlets. This is an expensive choice but is NEC code for all new building constructions (or at least it will be code soon.) Also, since most of the circuits only have one outlet, using GFCIs ensures all our appliances are protected from possible damage. Normally speaking, a single GFCI in a branch of many outlets will protect all of them from appliance failure.


The hookup outlet we installed is the standard 30 amp RV type. This will work for any RV parks we might stay in, but we also wanted the ability to plug in to standard 15 amp household power if that's what is available. Of course, this would only provide half the power (at best) but if, say, our batteries needed a boost in the winter it would be nice to have that option. Originally, I was going to install two hookup outlets: one 30 amp and one 15 amp. This would have required a transfer switch to select between them. Then I realized that a simple plug adapter would accomplish the same thing. So plug adapter it is!

30 amp plug

This was a much larger job than I anticipated, but at least now I have a good understanding of household wiring and electrical codes.

drumroll
July 29, 2010



Have you ever seen National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation? Remember this scene where the Christmas lights didn't work? Well, we had a scene of our own like that today when we finally got everything ready to test the outlets. The adapter plug came in the mail so we could plug in via an extension cord from the house. John had already plugged the piano in to get the cord out of the way a while ago so he sat down on the bench, flipped on the piano power and paused so we could share the moment before playing the first note. And nothing. Hit reset on the outlet. Still nothing. We tried the other outlets with a lamp and none of them worked.

Finally John tried flipping the switch for the fan, which is hard wired and it started right up. He checked the GFCI directions and figured out what went wrong. It turns out that the outlets come pre-tripped from the factory and need to be reset with power going through them first. So we had to plug in a lamp, turn it on and hit reset on each of the outlets. Now everything works! I'm so relieved!

water system
August 9, 2010


WaterSystemBlock


Here is a preliminary water system diagram. Unlike the electrical system, this setup is less concrete. The filters have to go through several steps of experimentation before we arrive at a final design. Also, the placement of the ozone generator might be changed; this depends on the method we choose to sterilize tanks, and where we decide to sterilize the filtered water. Because of the number of tanks we must maintain, it might be more practical to build several generator clones and leave them permanently coupled to their respective tanks.

You may notice this diagram does not include any rainwater catchment apparatus. We have decided to make that a separate system to be completed at a later date after we complete more important tasks to make the mobile condo functional and livable.

water system 2.0
September 1, 2010


WaterSystemBlock2


It's funny how after so much researching and designing, a system can completely change overnight.

When I started itemizing the fittings, pipes and logistics of our previous design, I realized a major overlooked flaw. The tank used in the ozone sterilization stage would be indoors and ozone is toxic. This tank would have to be vented to the outsize, and need the capability of being completely isolated from the rest of the system while ozone was being produced. Furthermore, a simple through-wall vent would not suffice; ozone can linger in an environment for up to an hour and even if we didn't mind being prisoners until it was safe to go outside, who is to say some passerby wouldn't accidentally inhale an unhealthy dose? For this to work, we would need a fan powered ventilation chimney, one whose exit point was high enough that no one would encounter any ozone gas. While this is still perfectly feasible, it represented a good second choice for sterilization. I was confident a simpler option was available.

UV light is equally as effective at destroying pathogens, leaves nothing in the finished product (unlike chemical sterilizers) is economical to produce and is safe for indoor use. Our redesigned system will utilize a UV sterilization final stage, preceded by a 5 micron sediment filter and a 0.5 micron activated carbon filter. Both the sink and shower drains will have filter catches installed so the main filters will have a light workload to extend their lifespan. This will also keep contaminants in the drain lines and sump tank to a minimum, reducing cleaning requirements and any particle buildup in the bilge pump.

This system does not directly address the issue of dissolved contaminants. We looked into reverse osmosis devices and found them to be counterproductive for our situation. RO systems generally operate around 95% separation efficiency, which I am not convinced would be adequate for turning our concentrated salty solution into a drinkable product. High-efficiency (98%+) RO devices - called "watermakers" - would do the job but electric models start at $4000. Perhaps more relevant is that the RO process creates a brine waste water byproduct, typically around 2/3 of the total untreated water volume. Losing 66 gallons of our 100 gallon supply after just one cycle of use is not my idea of sustainability.

Dissolved contaminants will be kept in check by adding rainwater to the main system after an equivalent volume of "old" water is drained off. The rainwater collecting, filtering and sterilizing process will all take place outside, thus allowing us to use ozone for this setup (we still want to get experience using ozone devices to be used for later projects.) Drinking and cooking water will also be supplied by this rain water, taking precedence over refreshing the main system.

Overall, I am much more optimistic about this design.

Drains
September 14, 2010


drain tank

The drain system is now installed. The sink and shower drains combine under the truck before entering the drain collection tank. PVC was using for the plumbing, except for the initial pipe from the sink to allow for removal for maintenance. After the drains combine, a flexible hose attaches the plumbing to the tank.
water pipe sink drain


The tank has a 10 gallon capacity and is mounted to the truck with two L-brackets spanned with angle iron. Large zip ties hold the tank to this assembly but we might change this to something reusable in the future.

hot water


water heater


The water heater, a 10 gallon Rheem, and showerhead assembly has been installed. The water heater runs on 120 VAC. While a DC model would have been preferred, the general quality of such specialty appliances is often questionable (as are the inflated price tags.) The 20 amp outlet dedicated to the heater is controlled by a switch. This allows the heater to be used intermittently as we will only be heating 10 gallons of water per day.
shower faucet


You probably noticed that the showerhead assembly is missing an important part: the showerhead. This won't be installed for a few more weeks because we'll be reusing the one we currently have in the house—a HighSierra low-flow non-aerating nozzle that delivers only 1.5 gallons per minute. We have had this showerhead for a while now and really like it. It's well built, can't clog from mineral build-up and feels like a conventional 2.5 GPM head.



countdown & costs
September 24, 2010


countdown 21

Our time is running out here and there is still so much to do. John has been bogged down with mandatory overtime at work throughout this past month and I've had more school assignments than I anticipated so it has been tough to stay on schedule. I did manage to get my closet and kitchen stuff packed and wrote a little about it here in my personal blog. I'm glad that we've had these extra 4.5 months to work on the truck before moving in but I can't say that I feel more ready now than I did back then. I still don't know what to expect or how we'll be received at our destinations. There are three weeks left before our absolute last day here but we're hoping to have everything packed up sooner so we'll have week to finish clearing out the house.

I also posted an itemized spreadsheet of our costs for the mobile condo so far. Since I lost my original, I had to estimate on some of the older things. The same goes for items we haven't purchased yet. I know I'm missing lots of little things but I think it's enough to get the gist of it. Let me know if you have questions or if I've left off anything of interest.

VIEW ITEMIZED LIST


kitchen organization
September 28, 2010


wall shelves

After trying to pack all my kitchen stuff into one, then (after failing) both of the refrigerator cabinet drawers, I realized it was getting to be a tight squeeze. I'm sure I'd be able to get it all in there but when it comes to using things and putting them away in the drawers every time, I figured it probably wasn't going to work very well. I could foresee things stacking up on our limited counter space. We planned to eventually put in some shelves or cabinets but decided we'd need them sooner rather than later.

shelves 2

We picked up a single bar, a 6-bar shelf and a magnetic knife holder to keep things out of the way. We are also able to hang a dish rack and S-hooks for utensils, measuring cups/spoons as well as some small pots for plants and other stuff. We'll have to box up some of these things while we're in transit, but that's fine with me since we'll be stationary for long periods of time.

heat
October 1, 2010


heater

The propane system (tanks, etc.) isn't done yet but the heater and vent are installed. The rest won't be urgent until it gets colder so that's all for now. Actually, we might even use electric heat for this first winter since we'll have access to shore power.

The heater is not specifically designed to be vented horizontally so we had to modify the flexible chimney to function correctly. The chimney is actually made up of two pipes (intake and exhaust) the outside of which was not flexible enough for the necessary bend. This pipe was replaced with a 3" semi-rigid duct pipe which was a bit easier to shape. We made sure to use something that is rated to withstand the temperature the pipe could possibly reach.

vent cover vent heat vent


The nice thing about this one is that no interior air is used in the combustion process and all the exhaust gases are vented to the outside. Without this feature, we wouldn't be able to use a non-electric heater inside the truck. I was disappointed at first that we were going to be using propane for heat. Now I have to admit that it's a relief to not need to worry about whether we'd be able to produce enough electricity to stay warm in the winter.

battery bank
October 10, 2010


batteries

I've got a lot of catching up to do here with all the progress we've been making. I guess I should start with the battery bank, which is installed and ready to be wired and hooked up to the power electronics. The shelf is made of ½" plywood and superstut. This may seem like overkill but four batteries weigh about 500 lb so this little shelf needs to be as sturdy as possible. It is also secured to the floor and wall for added stability.
battery shelf

We ended up purchasing different batteries than the ones we originally wanted. They are a generic version that is very close in weight, dimensions and capacity but cost about $1500 less overall. The Concorde batteries are a higher quality but we are hoping these universals will work just fine and hold up comparably.
batteries on shelf


so far, so good
October 19, 2010


We spent our first two nights in the mobile condo at the new location. There are still several things that need to be done but we've been busy and distracted with packing, giving/freecycling/craigslisting everything else, unpacking and buying our mini truck to take the place of the two scooters. The next project will be DC power, which will be used to run the water pumps, refrigerator, toilet fan and a few other things. There was no need to rush that part since we have shore power and access to a bathroom in the building next to where we park. Although, I'm looking forward to doing dishes in my own sink and buying groceries only once every week without worrying about it going bad. Hopefully there will be time to get it done this weekend.

I know I've skipped over a few other things that have been completed recently, but I'll catch up with everything soon when I have more time. I also have lots of photos to upload as soon as we find the camera, which is probably somewhere out in the trailer.

We really lucked out finding a great parking spot about three days before we moved the truck. There were other options but I'm much happier about wintering in a somewhat secluded place with amenities to make the transition easier. Plus, the property owner couldn't be any nicer. Overall, things are going really well.

winter parking
October 25, 2010


winter parking


We spent the weekend organizing the mobile condo and the trailer. Even after all the purging we did before the move, we still managed to pack several more boxes of things to give away. It feels good to continuously find more that we can have if we want but prefer to live without. Aside from being incredibly busy and not having much time for blogging, we're happy and having lots of fun. How are you?

That's all for now. I'll leave you with some photos of our winter parking spot.
MC winter parking


Read more about living in the Mobile Condo and our new/improved truck project (MC2) that will be ready to roll any day now.